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November 25, 2014
Making the Cut

The current issue of fashion and lifestyle magazine Lula takes a fascinating look at the future of the Row in the form of the apprentices that a number of our members are currently versing in the unique skill of bespoke Savile Row tailoring.

SRBA membership stipulates that each member must employ at least one salaried apprentice. The length of the different apprenticeships vary, but each demonstrates the remarkable dedication and amount of work that each party – master and apprentice – devote to them: apprentices specialising in cutting spend 4 to 6 years learning their craft, with those specialising in coats studying for 3 to 5 years and those mastering trousers 2 to 3 years.

Lula talks to apprentices at Anderson & Sheppard, Chittleborough & Morgan, Huntsman, Richard Anderson and Welsh & Jefferies.

Here’s an excerpt from writer Harriet Charity Verney’s conversation with former Welsh & Jefferies apprentice coat maker Oli Benge (pictured, top; below is fellow apprentice Antonia Ede of Huntsman's board), which reveals something of the changing face of Savile Row:

LULA — How is the suit changing in your eyes?

OLI — Tailoring is definitely changing, especially on Savile Row. I always envisaged Savile Row as a place where old, stately gentlemen go to get their immaculate chalk– stripe three–pieces to wear to work in the city. However I’ve seen this surge of young people who are being attracted by the style and cut, as opposed to a fashion house name. Tailoring is going in a positive direction.

LULA — What is the atmosphere like in Welsh & Jefferies’ studio?

OLI — Welsh & Jefferies is a small shop with only four people there in–house. There is music playing, but more of a mellow atmosphere with the likes of Marvin Gaye or Diana Ross. James (the owner) has been there for nearly 50 years and has the best sense of humour, and his partner Mei, without being biased, is one of the best coat makers on Savile Row. They make a dynamic partnership.

To read the entire article, buy issue 19 of Lula or take out a subscription here.

 

 

 

 



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